We have a carerra marble counterop and floor tiles in our bathroom. At the edge of the toilet, the marble has become slightly discolored–almost a yellowish verging on orangey rust colored. On the countertop, along the line where the backsplash piece of marble meets the countertop, we are having the same problem. Finally, there is now emerging a rust colored stain on the countertop, behind the faucet. The only thing I can speculate is water is doing the damage–could it be rust? The faucet is new and does not appear to be rusting. Any suggestions on how to remove these stains and prevent them in the future? - Terry

Hello Terry. Yellowing of Carrara white marble is very common due to the inherent iron in the particular stone. However, it usually takes a couple years for this to happen so I am going to assume your installation is not new and therefore this is the cause of the discoloring. The more the marble is exposed to moisture, the quicker and more pronounced will be the ‘rusting’ appearance.

There is nothing you can do to remove all of it because it is a very deep in the stone. You can try a product like ‘Iron-out’ and this will reduce the intensity. However, it will only work near the stone surface and there rust will eventually migrate up again. Also, this product will etch the marble a little and remove the polish. I would try it at a small spot at your toilet area first and see if you like the results. You can find ‘Iron-out’ at Home-Depot or Lowes.

Can travertine be drilled? If so what will I need? I’m going to be applying the travertine to shower walls. Any advise before I start is appreciated. Thanks for your time! - Bob

Hello Bob. Yes, travertine is easy to drill especially if you plan to use an escutcheon that will hide all the rough edges created from the drilling. If you are drilling a hole over 1/2″ diameter, use a diamond core pit. Use one made to cut holes in ceramic tile. These are the best for one time use on travertine because travertine is fairly soft. For holes that are smaller than 1/2″ use a standard masonry bit. Don’t push to hard and let the bit do the work. You might want to have a cup of water need by to dip the bit into it every 15 seconds to keep the bit cool. These will make the bit last longer. If you need to drill a hole that is 1″ or larger you will find that the bit will want to skip out of place if you do not have a template. To make a template, simply get a thin piece of particle board, wood or similar (I have even used a cardboard coaster once). Drill a hole through that first and then hole it in place as you use it for a guide to hold the core bit in place.

We need help picking a granite color for kitchen countertops in a condo we just bought. The kitchen is small and rectangular shaped, with stainless steel/black trim appliances, white cabinets, and Brazilian Cherry hardwood floors. There is a small island, which separates the kitchen from the living/dining rooms and foyer - the entire floor is Brazilian cherry hardwood. Our problem is finding a granite color (and wall paint color) to bring together the deep red cherry floors and white cabinets. Any suggestions? Thank you! - Suzanna

Hello Suzanna. I would recommend Chocolate Beaches granite or Arandis granite. See the colors on www.GraniteStock.com. Maybe Juparana Bordeaux if you like the romantic ambiance. Try a very light cranberry paint on the walls.

We have decided to change our kitchen coutertop from corian to granite and like the following granites - 2 dark ones (Tan brown, tropic brown) and 2 light ones (santa cecilia and giallo venziano). Our kitchen cabinets are maple with medium tone stain (not too dark, not too light) and the kitchen floor is hardwood with natural stain. Out kitchen gets a lot of light due to being in the East-side, so not worried too much about kitchen being dark, etc. The backsplash in the Kitchen above the countertop is tiles (light yellow/ivory color). We have a decent size island with a stainless steel cooktop on it and a decent size countertop on the perimeter as well. Which granite would you recommend in terms of its beauty (color, shine), less likelihood of absorption (of oil, acidic fluids, spices, water ring, etc.) and what ever else that is important to keep in mind with granites. Which one would look better with the specifics provided on our kitechen? Your candid thoughts will be greatly appreciated. - Hiral

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We just had our kitchen redone. We have a 46″ high bump up (bar like) area with an overhang that curves from 6″ to 12″ at its widest and it runs about a 10′ 7″ long between the kitchen/dining area. Five metal brackets support the granite. The fabricator and designer assured us that corbels were NOT needed. After the epoxy dried and the support sticks were removed, the counter is now 1/4″ out of level dipping down toward where we will have our stools. This is unacceptable to us. The contractor is now proposing corbels and possibly shimming the granite. I am upset that it was obviously done incorrectly the first time. Please share your opinion on how this should be handled in order to make it level and insure proper support. - Chuck

Hello Chuck. Unfortunately, corbels are the only solution without remove the granite. If you go to do a search of my blog for ‘overhang’ you will see a lot of my comments on this issue. (Check this one specifically, “Supporting A Large Overhang When Using Granite Tile“.)

If you can pop the granite without breaking it, you can upgrade the steel to the dimensions I stated in the comment I referenced. However, there are still some factors that could cause it to slump such as poor plywood anchoring and weak cabinet structure. The industry standard is to use corbels for 12″ overhangs, but steel straps can suffice, usually.

So, the plan is correct at this point, using corbels but shim are not required. The countertop needs to be raised back up to 1/8″ above level and supported with 2×4 wood. Then, install the corbles. The top will naturally sag to level. I hope you don’t break the granite because this process requires experience.

Tom - can you list some of the granites that are typically used by homebuilders or are otherwise highly common (so that I can avoid them)? While I recognize that the major homebuilders generally offer popular, relatively inexpensive granites as their standard options, I’d like to pick one that is a little more unusual. In particular, I’m considering Giallo Napoleon but am nervous that it’s just a little too boring!

Thanks - Jean

Hello Jean. I agree that Giallo Napoleon is boring but if you have other features in your kitchen that you want to highlight more than the granite, then it could be the right choice for that reason. The low costs golds and browns are the most popular to homebuilders because of broad appeal. The list is just too long to state here but basically consider that the more the granite costs, the less common it is in tract homes. It is as simple as that.

I would suggest asking your local granite supplier for a ‘Group C’ popular color. This way you will have an appealing color that is not so common.

Is it possible to retro fit a conventional stainless steel kitchen sink with an undermount sink. I have a granite counter top surrounding the 2 sinks. Can this be done and if so, is this a major undertaking? Thank you - Pam

Hello Pam. This might work but it will be very messy and probably not give you the best results. First of all, your top mount sink was most likely caulked around the edge, between the sink lip and the granite surface. When you lift the sink, you will see a caulking stain that will most likely be impossible to remove because it has been there for a long time.

Secondly, a fabricator will have to re-cut and polish the opening to the fit the new undermount sink. A topmount sink cut-out is usually larger than an undermount polished cutout so I doubt you will find a large enough undermount sink that will allow you to do what you want.

If you want to pursue this further, start by measuring the already cut opening in the existing countertop. You might have to get under the sink to measure how and where it was cut. Then look for an undermount sink that is bigger than the opening and still fits within your cabinet size. If you pass these two hurdles, go ahead and pull the sink up to see how bad the caulking stain is.

Dear Tom, I am searching the internet in desperation, as Hawaian/Tropical Green Granite was installed today with an Ogee edge in our new high end kitchen. We were told that the Ogee edge might be slightly lighter green in color for a time period-until it cured/oxidized/was exposed to the elements. It arrived with two Ogee edges (84″ and 86″) a pale gray, blue, red streaks-very drastic and obvious color difference from the warm and dark green/ cranberry streaks of the top. Other edge surfaces are varied and have only some of the pale gray blue discoloration. The squared off drop to the recessed sink is only the “lighter green” color as promised. We have been told that the Ogee problem is not a resin problem and that Ager and minwax were already tried in a small section, but did nothing. Therefore, we must wait and in time it will age and may already be in the process of change. Does this sound feasible to you? We have not paid any money and will most likely be holding back some money tomorrow. How long should we put in the guarantee period for this to change?

Thank you for any and all comments. - Nancy

Hello Nancy. The specific problem you are describing mostly occurs in the Green Granite from China and the Tropical Green from India. Both are very beautiful but have iron and mica minerals that create ‘browning’ affect on the stone after exposed to sunlight. The discoloration can occur within 30 days when exposed to a summer sun in Southern California for example.

The only time a difference occurs on an edge detail in this specific circumstance is when then this particular granite has been left out side for a while, prior to fabrication. If this granite was stored inside, then the edge detail, after grinding, would have the same minimal degree of sunlight exposure as the top surface. Likewise, if the entire countertop was expose to sunlight after fabrication, then the gradually color change would not be unpleasing.

The Ager product is excellent but it will not work for this circumstance because it is primarily a darkening agent. Take this information for what is worth and I wish you the best.

I am in the process of removing a hazy sealant from a slate floor. I am using a stripper with methylene chloride. After this should I wash the floor with a vinegar/water or ammonia/water solution prior to resealing?

How long should I wait after washing the floor before I can safely reseal.

Thank you for your help,
Anita

Hello Anita. First of all, methylene chloride is nasty stuff. I would never recommend anyone use it without the proper respirator and experience. Secondly, I would follow the washing directions as written on the stripper you are using. Lastly, I would wait 24 hours before re-examining the surface to see if you are happy with the results. Then, I would sponge it with Acetone and let dry again for 4 hours. Then, sweep it vigorously to remove all dust residues. After that, do whatever you choose as far as sealer goes according to the manufactures instructions. This was a tough one to comment on because I think you should get a professional to do this safely and properly the first time.

My question is: can granite tiles be installed over a laminate counter top. If so, any special instructions. - Madeline

Hello Madeline. I guess theoretically you could do this but I would never recommend it. Perhaps you could screw cement board to the laminate top and then install the granite tile over that. However, there are many factors that could cause the granite tile installation to fail because of the unknown integrity of the laminate counter top installation. Plus, if you do this, your granite surface will be about 3/4″ higher than it was before. This might not seam like a lot but you will notice the difference and it will most likely bother you.

You really need to remove the laminate top first. You should remove the existing top, then install 3/4″ plywood (for tile installation only), then install 1/4″ Hardi-board over the plywood by screwing it down. Be sure to put a strip of hardboard on the front counter edge as well.

Hello Tom, my wife and I are remodeling our kitchen taking down walls new cabinets and are looking at a granite called Giallo Veneziano, my question to you is: do I do a all tile back splash from counter top all the way 18 inches or all granite back splash to the bottom of cabinet….what is your opion on that.

I thank you for your time. We find your site wonderful it is people like you that help all of us out!

Regards,
Mark & Nicole

Hello Mark. I would definitely recommend using granite slab over granite tile for the splash. The granite shading difference between tiles to slab can vary too much. Secondly, the granite joints in the tile will degrade the beautiful seamless look of the countertops.

However, if it takes another slab to do the backsplash, then there is a budget consideration to go with tile. If you do choose tile, just be sure the joints are not wider than 1/16″ and that the color range of the tile closely matches the range of the slab countertops. Install the tile at a diagonal 45 degrees.

Best wishes!