Archive for September, 2006

Car Wax On Granite?

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Maintenance Help, Sealer Questions on September 5th, 2006

Tom,
Your site is fantastic! We purchased a new home 4 years ago with Uba Tuba Green tile Granite. Our installer also told us it was OK to use an express car wax on our Granite. I have only done this a couple of time (like when family is showing up and Black Granite not do glossy). I seal the Granite at least once a year (or when I notice glass rings) I also use granite Gold daily cleaner. Will the car wax harm my granite?
Thank you,
Sheri

Hello Sheri,

Oh, did you get bad advice! There are several reasons that Car Wax is not good from granite. First, if it is petroleum based, it could stain the granite. Second, if it is silicone based (most likely), it will leave a topical coasting that will wear unevenly and leave you with a blotchy sheen. It also can darken the granite unevenly because the different minerals have different degrees of porosity. I recommend that you remove the car wax in order to achieve a long lasting, low maintenance surface.

First try a home remedy - liquid dish washing soap - full strength. Let it sit on the countertop for 5 minutes, then use a green scrub pad and work the wax off it that. Let it dry and sealer it will a premium granite sealer.
Then refer to my page titled, “Granite Sealer and Maintenance” for easy care instructions.

If the wax still does not come off, you need to use Acetone (hardware store). This will rip the wax off, but not harm your granite. Apply sealer after that.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Dark Spots on Light Granite

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Stain Problems on September 5th, 2006

Dear Tom,

I just had colonial cream granite installed. The next morning we woke to find 50 - 60 large brown spots. It has been 5 days now and the spots have not gone away. The installers would like to send a granite restoration company out. The stains are from the adhesive used during installation. They said the restoration company has some type of chemical they can put on the spots and then use a torch on them to remove the spots. Will this damage the granite or hurt the integrity of the granite in any way. I paid for new granite not restored granite, I’m not sure what I should do?

Beth

Hello Beth,

There is a lot to say about why this happened but, suffice to say, you should let them try to remove the leach marks as they mentioned. If the torch gets too close to the surface for too long it can harm the surface but you will see/feel the difference after they are done. So, let them try and if the stain does not reappear in 30 days, then the marks will not reappear.

The Colonial Cream granite is a problematic stone for oil base adhesives, and the only way to avoid this is to waterproof the back of the stone before installation. Very few installers know this, so let them try the remedy and if is works then you have exactly what you paid for. Be nice and optimistic!

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Edge Options With Less Bulk

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Installation Issues on September 4th, 2006

Dear Tom,

We have been told by our general contractor that our granite countertop edge will have to be 2 1/4 inch thick. Because we are installing a gas cooktop directly over a built in electric oven and the two appliances need some clearance our contractor installed double plywood. We are not happy with the bulk of the edge however, since we have no choice can you recommend an edge treatment that would look less bulky.

Thank you,
Joyce Polter

Hello Joyce,

I do understand your consideration. The 2 1/4″ bullnose edge is quite bulky. I recommend you consider a 1 1/2″ bullnose and then a flat 3/4″ straight down piece under the bullnose (recessed). This will look very nice and much less bulky. I have attached a rough and quick sketch here for you. (File is a PDF.)
Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Supporting Granite Properly

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Installation Issues on September 4th, 2006

Tom,

We have about 110 sf. of laminate countertop that we are considering replacing with 1 1/4? granite. Most of the counter configurations seem pretty straight forward, but we are having trouble getting clear answers about how to support the overhang/bar area at one end.

The area is an island that has back to back cabinets with a full height support fall between them, that are also offset from each other. The overhang area is 14 inches for a full cabinet depth of 24 inches, and then it steps back to a full 29 inches across the wall thickness of 6 inches plus another cabinet depth of 24 inches . This overhang area accommodates 3 bar stools (2 on the 54 inch side and 1 in the 29 inch side).

We also are having difficulty finding anyone who can give us proven options on how to deal with the overhang support issue without losing our 3-seat capacity.

Also, can we purchase an additional piece of matching granite to use as a table in the kitchen too? This would only be about 36? by 48?. How would we apply the legs and what type of legs would be best? Where can we get this type of hardware?

Help!

Thanks,

Brian & Sharon - Western PA.

Hello Brian,

Using 3cm thick granite will be fine with an overhanging of 12 inches without corbel supports. There are a few exceptions, that being Class D granite which is characteristic by having a fiberglass mesh on the back. No plywood is needed either, just install the granite right on the cabinets.

If you wish to hang over further than 12″, you can install corbels at a ratio of 1″ per extra 1″ of overhang and you will fine as well. Obviously if you intend on handing 13″ you are not going to install a 1″x1″ corbel but in this case, just go without corbels as long as you don’t plan on sitting on the countertop.

If you are thinking of overhanging more than 16″ without corbels, install 3″ wide by 1/8″ thick galvanized steel plate strips under the overhang from the cabinet edge to 2″ from the bullnose edge. This will aid in the deflection strength. Install with two-part epoxy. Also, remember gravity! If you hang over to far or if you apply stress to the overhang (e.g. dancing on top!) you will stress the adhesive and through your countertop out of level.

Bottom line, 3cm thick granite is very strong and you can push it with your overhang without corbels as long as you sit under it, not on it. Never attempt this with 2cm (3/4″) thick granite. If you need an a good installer, try Bernardi Marble and Granite in Werton, WV. There are a www.HomeGranite.com certified installer. I think they cover your area.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Cleaning Tar From Granite

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Stain Problems on September 4th, 2006

Hi Tom,

I just had a new asphalt driveway installed with a granite Belgian Block apron at the front. Apparently the wheel barrows leaked the dark brown oil or tar (whatever liquid is used in asphalt) onto the new granite stones. How do I remove these stains from the rough granite surfaces of the blocks? (The driveway contractor knocked $150 off the $10,000 cost of the project as compensation — but I have do the cleaning.)

Jack

Hell Jack,

You are nice guy to accept a $150 credit for this problem. You mentioned Belgian Block, but I am going to assume you meant Belgian Black. This is beautiful granite and must have been expensive. I’d love to see a photo.

Ok, here is what you need to do. First, scrape away the excess tar with a blade. Even use a razor blade to scrape as much off as possible. Clean the remaining with Acetone (from a hardware store) and a clean white cloth. If the stain remains, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) and a poultice powder. If the stain has been there for a long time it might be stubborn. In this case, you need to use a De-Solv-It (available at hardware stores) and a poultice powder. This stuff is strong and might leave a mark on the granite. Your odds are very good with Acetone on Belgian Black. Try a small area first.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Choosing Granite

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Granite Choice Advice on September 4th, 2006

This post is a follow-up to the post “Rough Spots“.

Tom,

OK! I really need your help now. My builder has agreed to replace all of the granite in my kitchen. I have to go pick the granite slabs this time. Please tell me some granites that you would recommend. I would like a beige to brown with a little bit of black in it as my sink is black. I know that different places call granite different names but if you can tell me some names of stones that do not have a lot of pitting in them in this color range I would really appreciate it. Also is granite graded by the availability of the color or by the quality of the stone? Is it just different more rare colors that cost more or is the stone just a better quality?

Jennifer

Hello Jennifer,

Granite is priced differently on supply and demand. If a single quarry owner has a very popular color, he also controls the pricing. The price does not reflect a quality difference. There are some very nice low costs granites. I suggest you look at www.GraniteStock.com and let me know which colors you like. I will let you know about the technical properties of the ones you like. Just go to the site and do a Homeowner search and select beige or brown as the general color search criteria.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Drying Granite Before Sealing

Posted in Answers to Granite Questions..., Maintenance Help, Sealer Questions, Stain Problems on September 4th, 2006

We moved to a new built house with granite countertops in the kitchen. . The granite is a light-ish slab ‘beige light brown’ with gray and orange running through it and is sealed. If water spills on it, it leaves a dark spot but eventually evaporating. However, we noticed lately the area around the faucet is discolored even after it dried out for more than 24 hours. We believe the discoloration is caused by water splashing onto the granite countertop surfaces while the faucet is turning on. It seems to me the water is already penetrate the stone. Is there any solution to withdraw that ‘wet look’ from the stone before we seal it.

Thanks for your help in advance.

Janet

Hello Janet,

Well, your granite was not initially sealed properly. Your water issue is very common when sealer is not done properly. Some people live with the discoloration because the water has absorbed so deeply that it can take two weeks to fully dry by evaporation. However, not only is it important to dry it out and reseal it for aesthetic purposes, leaving it wet will provide a growth source for fungus and mold. This is very bad. I recommend taking a day out and doing the following.

Disconnect and remove the faucet. You need to do this for two reasons. First, if there is a link in the base of the faucet you will never dry it out unless it is re-installed properly. Second, you will need to use a blow dryer and point it down the hole to dry the granite it thoroughly. If you only point the dryer at the top of the granite, the granite will dry out on the top layer only and then the water will leach up by evaporation later. I hope you understand this. It will take about 5 minutes of blow drying every hour for about 5 hours to dry our 3/4″ thick stone because you have a light color granite.

After you are done, apply a premium penetrating granite sealer over the entire countertop and a heavier coat around the sink and cooktop. Be sure to let it soak in for about 20 minutes and then wipe off all the wet excess sealer. Do not let the sealer dry on the granite surface. After 4 hours, hook up the faucet and you are done.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova