Hi - We are considering installing honed Verde Maritaca granite for a kitchen countertop and have received conflicting advice re the possibility of staining. What is your advice?

Thanks,
Katie

Hello Katie,

Verde Maritaca granite is one of my favorite colors from Brazil. I think it is beautiful, honed or polished. It is very durable and is often used for exterior cladding of building as well. All granites should be sealed with a premium penetrating granite sealer so that contaminants do not get in to the granite and it makes the surface very easy to clean. When granite is used in a honed finish, it is more absorbent than polished because the microscopic ridges in the surface have bigger gaps between them.

Here is what I recommend. Use a high viscosity granite sealer. My specific recommendation is Miracle 511 Porous Plus Sealer. Be careful not to buy the 511 Impregnator which is a lower viscosity sealer. The Porous Plus Product wont want to sink as deep into the granite as a low viscosity sealer but it will more adequately fill the larger (yet microscopic) gaps in honed granite. Note, never allow sealer dry on the surface. Apply and let it sit for 30 minutes (in cool temperature), but do not let it dry. If it starts to dry, apply a little more sealer to keep it wet. Wipe of all excess sealer after 30 minutes. Wait about 8 hours after your wiped it clean and then apply a light coat of sealer for 15 minutes. Do not let it dry either. Wipe it clean and then stay off it for 24 hours. You should have a very low maintenance surface after this. If you have a sample, do this procedure on a sample first to confirm that you will be happy with the results.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

I noticed that you mentioned that all granite should be sealed. I have heard from experts in the granite industry that say that black “granite” is the exception to this. Since black granite is not a “true granite” and is one the densest, darkest, and least porus you should not seal it. They say all other granite should be sealed. Do you agree?

I am having major issues with the constant daily maintenance of my Absolute Black Granite counters. I am just tired of cleaning them several times a day to rid the finger prints, marks, etc. I am thinking about just spending the money to have them replaced with another granite or other surface. I have Merrilat White Cabinets, and I am afraid there will be damage to my white cabinets if I replace these. Can I have them replaced by a professional without damage to the surface of the base cabinets? Someone once told me that you are stuck with your granite countertops once you install them. I hope not - because I’m tired of the Absolute Black.

What do you suggest using on daily cleaning of my Absolute Black counters?

Jhon

Hello Jhon,

You comments make me think you surface is honed. It your granite is a hone finish, disregard everything that I say below and search “honed black granite” on this website for another article. If you have honed black granite, my recommendation is have it torn out by a professional and replace with another color.

Nonetheless, You are right that ‘Black Granite’ is a misnomer. Granite is igneous rock and therefore has certain percentages of Quartz and Feldspar. However, Black Granite as it is called does not have the quartz content to be classified as an igneous rock, therefore it can not be a granite. Hard black rocks that are commercially used for countertops are usually Antorsite, Andesite or Dolerite. Yes, they too are not all the same. You could have a porous black rock that should be sealer or a dense black rock that will not absorb much sealer. There are some ‘black granites’ from Brazil and China that should definitely be sealed. Also in contrary, there are some very dense ones from India and South Africa.

I recommend you buy premium low viscosity penetrating granite sealer and apply it to the countertop. Let it set there for approximately 20 minutes but no not let it dry on the countertop. If you need to apply more sealer to keep it moist, then do so. After 20 minutes, wipe off all the wet liquid that remains and let it sit for 24 hours. This will aid in cleaning even with the most dense black rocks. For daily cleaning, see my article on cleaning and maintenance.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

We did not seal our granite countertops in the bathrooms when we had them installed. Now two years later there is a white water mark from the calcium from the water near the faucet handle.

Our granite is a dark color (don’t remember the name). What do I clean it with to get the white haze off? I will definitely seal it, once it can be cleaned.

Thank you,
Janet LaCorte

Hello Janet,

First of all, Please be sure that you have Granite, not Marble. This advice will ruin marble, but it will not harm granite.

Remove the faucet and scrape the area clean with a razor nice. Then apply a phosphoric acid solution (Hardware store) on the surface. It will eat the mineral deposits away. (Note: Phosphoric Acid will ruin marble and also damage any metal.) After you are done, let it dry out and reply a premium granite sealer.

Bet wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom,
I have a 15 year old home and the kitchen counter tops are a multicolored red-black granite. I’ve noticed surface of the most-used counter top has a cloudy appearance to it. I am thinking this is due to vinegar, as this has been used repeated to clean the surface recently. I’ve recently learned not to use vinegar as a cleaning agent for granite, so I will stop immediately. Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the cloudy spots from my counter?

Thank you for your kind consideration.

Sincerely,
Suzanne

Hi Suzanne,

Most Red Granites are high in quartz and corundum minerals.

Neither of these are not harmed by vinegar. There are other minerals in Red Granite in much smaller percentages, like Mica, Rhyolite, and Calcium Oxide which can be affected by the corrosive Acetic Acid in vinegar. However, you mentioned a ‘cloudy’ affect in some areas. I do not believe vinegar would create this sporadic appearance. In 15 years since your countertops were installed, there likely were other chemicals used that caused this cloudy appearance, such as Ammonia Bi-fluoride which is found in some glass cleaners. A second cause could be liquid soap being used after you your countertop sealer was stripped away by the vinegar. Some detergents mixed with ammonia can cause this hazy.

My best guess is that your granite has become permanently microscopically etched by Ammonia bi-fluoride, or hydrofluoric acid at some point. Red granite is very hard to re-polish so I don’t think it is practical to have a refinisher work on it; however, it is worth asking a local stone refinisher if you can find one.

I want you to try something and then let me know the result. Buy Acetone at the local hardware store and clean your countertops with it thoroughly. This will remove any residue on the surface. This will also remove any penetration sealer so be prepare to sealer it promptly afterwards if the haze is gone. Use Miracle Sealant 511 Impregnator Sealer everywhere after cleaning with the acetone (Let the countertop dry first before applying sealer). Let me know your results.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

How do I remove a grout nightmare from my very pourous Indian, multi-coloured, un-sealed, slate tile? The genius who installed it, left the gour over-night and now my floor is wrecked!!!!! Help Please!

Adrienne

Hello Adrienne,

You need to acid wash the floor. There are several grout haze cleaning products sold at your local HomeDepot, Lowes or Ceramic Tile store but they all rely on three active chemicals. Phosphoric Acid, Sulfamic Acid or Amonia-bifloride. I mention this because you should try a “grout haze remover” first. However, it might not be strong enough to do your messy job. In which case, you need to go with a potent solution. For a very potent product, search for a “concrete acid etching product”. The product used when preparing concrete for painting or staining. This is strong phosphoric acid and may even have some ammonia bi-floride in it. Test it in a small area for desired results.

Note, these strong products love to eat calcium carbonate base materials such as marble and limestone. Slate is a different composition so you will not have the same detrimental etching results as marble. Still, discoloration may occur so if you go with the heavy duty solution, test it first. ear gloves and protect your eyes as well.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Tom,

Should there be a seam in a countertop with undermount kitchen sink for a 128 inch long and 25 inch deep and 3cm thick countertop working from a full slab? For a master bath vanity sinks how far should the bowls be apart on 78 inch countertop? Should there be any gap between the bartop and the backsplash on a island counter? How do you end the back splash where it meets the ogee counter edge with the bartop 5 inchs above? Are there any tricks to look for?

Thank You,
Bill Van Horn

Hello Bill,

Firstly, yes there must be a seam on a length of 128″ long. One seam at the center of the sink is common.

Secondly, for your master bath, the sink hole spread is completely up to you. I would think 36″ from center-to-center of sink is about right, but that is a personal choice and depends on your cabinet drawer layout as well.

Thirdly, for your bartop, I think you mean should there be a gap behind the bullnose to the face of the splash. Well, that could depend on other layout issues that I am not aware of with your kitchen. Usually, there should not be a gap of more than 1/4″. If it does not feel right, then it probably was not done right. Work through this issue with your installer.

Lastly, splashes should end where the edge detail starts. Transitions are the toughest part of a kitchen, especially for remodels. Consider the pros and cons of alternatives and go with the best option. That is all you can do. I hope this helps.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom! We just moved into a house with a fireplace in the family room. It has travertine surrounding the fireplace on all sides and a wooden mantle (60″ long) over the top travertine. We would like to add wooden legs (40″) to match the wooden mantle but we’re not sure how to install it. The travertine length also covers 60″ X 40″.

Do we drill holes on the travertine to install the legs or do we have to buy a longer mantle (possibly 72″) and install the legs outside of the travertine area? Thanks for your help.

Hazelle

Hello Hazelle,

I suggest the following. For the bottom, drill a 5/16″ diameter hole in the travertine so that it is 3/4″ deep. Then drill a hole at the center of the bottom of the wood column that is 2 1/2″ deep (same 5/16″ diameter). Use a masonry drill bit for the travertine and a wood bit for the column.

Then cut a 1/4″ diameter steel dowel pin about 2″ long. Slide a 1/4″ steel dowel up in the wood hole. This way, when you set the column in place, it will drop down 3/4″ into the travertine hole and still be 1 1/4″ up in the wood hole. For the top, do the same concept, making the mantle hole deep enough to receive the steel dowel and then it should drop partially into the column when you set it in place. Use clear silicone caulking at the top and bottom of the column for adhesive support.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hey Tom -

We are having travertine installed for the first time, and are not 100% sure that the job is a good one. What are industry accepted tolerances for travertine installation? In other words, nothing can be perfect, but how much variance in the hight of one tile to the next is considered acceptable? These are 18? tiles, honed and filled.

Thanks in advance,

Tom

Hi Tom,

The actual industry standard is vague because of the lack of definition between “marble” and “tile”. In other words, travertine tile falls into both categories and “tile” give allow to much variation for the stone tile because the edges are not factory rounded.

The unwritten ‘Quality Standard’ for Travertine stone flooring is that it should feeling smooth across the joints. You should not feel or see ridges. That being said, variations in heights between tiles can sometimes be considered acceptable if the joint width is wide enough to make the transitions smooth (within reason).

If the tiles installed are smooth finish and without tumbled edges, then the joints should not be wider that 3/16″ (assuming an interior installation). If the joint is wider, then the non-sanded grout will eventually crack. Technically, it should be 1/8″ maximum but I know that 3/16″ is adequate for sanded grout if the proper amount was pushed down into the joint.

Since you have a concern, I’m going to guess that you have approximately 1/8″ wide joints with height variations 1/16″ to 3/32″ in some areas. I say this because if an installer that is used to setting ceramic tile (with factory rounded edged) tries to install travertine, then this is the common result. You should also take the back of a broom and knock on the floor in many places (especially the corners of the tiles). If it sounds hollow, then the grout will come loose at that location in the near future. Many homeowners accept this situation because of lack of knowledge or “they got what they paid for” feeling. That part is up to you.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

I have just remodeled my kitchen and some parts of my granite countertop feel grainy. Should it feel grainy?

- Veronica

Hello Veronica,

It should not feel grainy. Perhaps too much sealer was applied and the excess that hardened on the surfaces is gradually coming loose. You may was to try to clean it with Acetone if it continues. Talk to your installer about this.

Best Wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi, Tom.
I will be tiling a tub surround with granite tiles. Can you please tell me what, if any, differences there are between ceramic tile installation and granite tile installation? Is moisture-resistant sheetrock sufficient, or do I have to use Hardyboard? Will thinset hold granite? Any special instructions because it is a high-moisture area? Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Vera Starr

Hello Vera,

Moisture resistant sheetrock (Green board) is the cheaper way to go and may be sufficient if the tub has a lip for the sheetrock to flash over and if the caulking is done really well by the installer at all the penetrations. However, keep in mind that the product inside sheetrock is gypsum, which is a mold sanctuary! If moisture gets in to this area, you
have birthed a silent killer - black mold.

Short of floating the walls out with lath and cement, I would recommend using 1/2″ cement board or (composite cement-board) and then apply a liquid trowel applied waterproofing membrane over the surface. The alkaline in cement board is a mold inhibitor!

For tile adhesive, be sure that a latex modified thinset is used. Do not use standard cheap thinset that does not have latex. Latex will increase the bond strength so that your joints do not crack from the heat and movement of the walls. Caulk all vertical corner joints and at top and bottom of the tile wall.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova