Two years ago I installed Granite Tiles, “Amarillo Gold”, on my kitchen counters. They surface has held up well, but after 2 years should I reseal them? In preparation for resealing them I cleaned them with concentrated all purpose “Awesome” cleaner which contains no ammonia, acid, or bleach. Will Awesome hurt the granite surface? What non-toxic product should I use to reseal with. The granite is has a shiny finish.

Marica

Hello Marica,

Yes, after two years, I am sure your granite should be resealed. You can use the “Awesome” cleaner for a thorough cleaning in preparation for resealing. This is actually a great product for this intent. However, don’t use this product after you seal the granite because it could deteriorate the applied sealer. I was reading the Awesome Product MSDS Form and noticed that it has a citric smell. Citric acid will not harm your granite but will mildly deteriorate your sealer. So, clean it, let it dry, and then apply a premium penetrating granite sealer. Follow the maintenance guide in my article, “Sealing and Cleaning Your Granite“.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

I had violetta granite countertops installed about three years ago. We sort of put the cart before the horse because we didnt replace the kitchen cabinets at the time. Now, we are replacing the cabinets a) because they are older and can’t be refinished easily and b) because the new appliances we would like won’t fit.

My question: How difficult is it to remove existing granite countertops and reinstall them on the new cabinetry? The overall footprint will remain the same with a few minor adjustments.

I am having the original installer over to look at the job but I would like to be prepared for what he might tell me.

Thank you very much for your time.

Deb

Hello Deb,

Rarely is the reuse of granite countertops successful because the granite breaks when prying it up from the cabinet. However, this is what I recommend.

If you have 2cm thick granite with a plywood subtop, then the best approach is for the granite professional to use a technique whereby many screws are inserted up from the bottom of the plywood to put equal pressure on the granite. The screws will spread the plywood from the granite as they are tightened. However, if this approached is rushed, then a screw will apply to much pressure (stress) at a single point of the granite and the granite will fracture. This is one of those techniques where the first time someone does it, they break the granite so look for experience with this technique.

Another possibility is to try to remove the plywood with the granite from the cabinet and then carefully chisel off the plywood later. In case you have 3cm solid stock granite the perimeter can be cut below the granite edge at the cabinets and the granite should pop right off.

The best news is that you said you have Violetta Granite. This is very dense and hard granite from Saudi Arabia. It is very strong and gives you the best chance of success for this project.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Tom,

We are in the process of replacing our solid surface counter tops with granite. On the breakfast bar the granite will have a 12″ overhang. The granite fabricator recommended that we install corbels for support. What is the best way to install the corbels to ensure that they will support the granite overhang? Is there more than one way to install the corbels?

Thank you,
Carl Wallace

Hello Carl,

I have to make a couple assumptions because you did not provide me with some important information. For the purpose of this reply, I will assume that the granite is 3cm solid stock and the granite color is not in Class D, meaning that it does not have fiberglass mesh on the back to keep give it strength.

Now then, there is some debate about how far 3cm granite should overhang without corbels. If you consider that children might hang or pull on the granite overhang or that someone might sit on it, then you should install corbel at overhangs greater than 10″. If you have Class D granite, install overhangs past 6″. In general, Granite that is solid 3cm stock does not need corbels for flexural strength at 10″. Some granites, like the ones from Saudi Arabia, do not need it at 12″. However, my comments are regarding flexural strength issues and do not apply to safety concerns. Installing corbels is important for the child safely reason mentioned above so if you can live with the knee bangs, then you should install them as follows.

Start 6″ in from the open end, and put one corbel there. Do the same on the other end, unless the counter meets a wall, in which case you should install it against the wall. Then install corbels equally apart between the two outside corbels without exceeding 30″ between any two corbels. For 3cm thick granite at 12″ overhang, I would suggest 6″x6″x 1 1/2″ wood corbels or 6″x6″x 3/4″ steel corbels. Note, you can vary from this advice slightly depending on your exact cabinet dimensions. Just use good common sense.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi!

We had Madurai Gold granite countertops installed in our kitchen about 10 months ago. We noticed recently that the joint/crack between two pieces of the stone (where two pieces were used to cover a long counter area) was not properly sealed and a small space or crack had developed. Before we were able to correct, I spilled some cooking grease in that area about 1 week ago. At first I did not notice a problem. The grease wiped up quickly and did not leave a stain. However, since then a dark spot is radiating from one side of the crack. I assume that the grease seeped into the crack and is being absorbed through the granite from the side. Any suggestions on fixing the problem or removing the stain?

Thanks!
Amy

Hello Amy,

Your assessment of what happened is very good. The cooking grease went into the opening and soaked in to the rough edge of the granite.

It is important to work on removing the stain as soon as possible. First, clean the area thoroughly with a good detergent or just use Ivory soap. Let it dry and then soak the area with a commercial degreaser (buy at your local hardware store). Soak it for several minutes and don’t let the degreaser dry. Reapply it to keep it wet. Remove the degreaser and rinse with clean water. You can try this a couple times over a couple days. If the stain is still present I recommend you buy ‘OPP Stain Remover’ from Stone Care International. This is good poultice from your stain problem. After the stain is gone, you need to apply epoxy to the joint to seal it up.

I recommend you contact a local granite shop to do this or ask the installer to fix it based on their warranty. An ethical good company will not charge you for this warranty work. If you can not get anyone to do it, check the hardware store for two-part epoxy that comes with an ejection applicator. Follow the instructions for mixing and apply it with a razor blade. Don’t forget to reapply a penetration granite sealer on the granite after the stain is gone.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Maroon Cohiba.

I am thinking of putting this color granite in my kitchen. I was wondering whether a dark granite will show scratches and also if it will look dirty all the time. Do you think it would be better to go with a lighter color granite?

Thanks,

Renee

Hello Renee,

The Maroon Cohiba from Brazil is a beautiful unique stone and if it moves you, buy it. Some spots on this granite are a little softer than steel; therefore, it can be scratched with a knife, but I don’t believe this is a concern with this specific granite under normal kitchen countertop uses. Inspect each slab you buy and look for pitting and any hairline fissures that you can feel. Be sure that you are satisfied with the exact slabs and tag them for your kitchen.

Regarding light granite, think about this. Many kitchens can not handle a dark granite because they are too small or do not have enough light. If this is not the situation with your kitchen, then by all means, go darker. There is a bold natural expression that only the darker browns, greens and golds can express.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

I have Honed Black Pearl granite and for the most part I am delighted with it. It was sealed when it was installed a year ago. I have strong lights in my kitchen and at night, when I look into the kitchen from my family room, you can see the reflection of the light in the granite surface and that surface is gray and hazy. (There is a lot of “pearl” in this granite and that might be the source of the grayness.) Anyway, is there any way to treat the granite to eliminate the hazy grayness (short of cooking in the dark at night!)

Christine

Hello Christine,

You explained your situation very well. Thank you for that. Cooking in the dark is one option that would work for sure.

The Black Pearl from India is an Anthorsite, and the mineral hardness varies from about 5 to 7 on the Mohs Scale. When the stone is honed the difference areas will reflect light to different degrees. Unfortunately there is no practical way to eliminate this ‘hazy’ that you are seeing because the ‘pearl’ minerals are not the same hardness as the minerals that surround it.

This does not bother most people when the finish is polished but it is definitely more noticeable in ‘honed’ finish. Have you considered using diffused lights? You can still have a bright kitchen but if you use diffused lights, this could reduce/eliminate the haze.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

We are considering “Nordic Black” 3cm for our replacement counter tops (replacing Formica). We have read your comments regarding Absolute Black and are wondering if we will have a maintenance concern with our choice. We have discovered the Nordic Black in Dal Tile’s yard but have not seen it listed on the internet.

Maurice

Hello Maurice,

If it really is Nordic Black, it has white feldspar veins. This rock is a Black Anorthosite, which is about 85% feldspar plagioclase.

It is not granite because it does not have at least 65% quartz. Feldspar is a 6 on the Mohs Hardness Scale so it is still pretty hard. However, it is more absorbent that granite and needs a good coat of sealer. Still use a low viscosity sealer just do a double coat about 6 hours apart. If you love this stone and it is polished finish, I’d say go for it. If it is honed, it will look like an antique/old very soon. It is a beautiful stone and just needs a little more sealer once in while if cared for normally. I hope this helps.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

What kind (chemically) of sealant or filler material should be used in granite joints on outdoor facades of buildings?

- Faysal

Hello Faysal,

For exterior façades of buildings, you need to refer to the Marble Institute of America and Ceramic Tile Institute published guidelines. Most architect’s have these. The joint filler that should be used is heavily dependent upon the installation method used to attach the granite to the building. If the application is ‘adhered veneer’, you can consider fortified grouts. However, if the façade is large panels of granite that are mechanically installed with clips or extrusions, you must use a flexible sealant such as products made by Dow Corning or Tremco. Without the details about the installation, I can not advise you. Still, I suggest that you look at the guideline resources that I mentioned above.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hello,

I recently started to look at tile for floors and countertops for renovations at my home. While at the store the salesperson pointed out a remnant of “fired granite” that I love.

I have tried to find information on “fired” granite and have been unsuccessful. Any info you have would be great.

Thanks,

Cheryl

Hello Cheryl,

Well, that is the first time I have heard it called, ‘fired’. I am sure what he meant was, ‘flamed’ or ‘thermal’ finish. Search one if these two words on the internet along with the word ‘granite’, and you will find tons of resources. If you are looking for a supplier that stocks it near you, check www.GraniteStock.com. It will list the flamed (thermal) finished granite suppliers by color name.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Today I had someone come in to clean and seal my Vermont soapstone counters in the house I recently bought. Afterwards I found that they used a floor sealant called ZEP to seal and despite the various marks did not sand down at all before sealing. The questions that I have are:

Couldn’t they have sanded down the entire counter-tops (as opposed to particular areas which may leave indentations) and wouldn’t this likely get more of the marks out than the scrubbing that he did; and

I am quite concerned that the sealant he used is for floors and therefore is potentially toxic for areas where I do food preparation. I can already tell that the waxy finish will peel off when a knife touches it and am worried that those flakes will enter the food and may be toxic to us or our kids.

Am I being overly paranoid?

Thanks
Mike

Hello Mike,

I have to admit that I can not consult you completely on the subject. Soapstone is extremely soft, yet very dense. This means very low absorption but your fingernail can scratch it. There is a long history of soapstone use for countertops and it is heavy pushed by Martha Stewart. I personally can not embrace the use of it for a number practical reasons.

The care and maintenance is total different from marble, granite or slate. It involves using mineral oil and generally accepting deformations that will occur. I really need to refer you to a supplier to properly answer your questions. Contact the people at www.SoapstoneWest.com. I met the owner once and found him quite knowledgeable.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova