Hi Tom
We recently had Pompeii 3cm granite installed in our kitchen. We haven’t had a great experience with our installers, which leaves us with three questions for you:

The surface, which is sealed, has multiple small divots. These appear innumerable in direct sunlight and many can be felt – is this a normal surface polish? We’re hearing that this is normal for natural stone. I don’t like it because it looks like it is dirty all the time.

Secondly, our bar is C-shaped with side overhangs of 4″ and an 11″ overhang on the 70″seating area. Are two 9″ wood corbels sufficient for support?

Finally, we have a seam on each side of an undermount corner sink. We’re happy with one seam, but the other joins two slabs with different color and color flow directions. This granite has a lot of movement, so we’re not sure what an appropriate seam should look like. You probably won’t believe this, but when we asked to pick out individual slabs, we were told that was not possible because it would be too hard to move them around. Yes, we’re having a “Duh” moment in retrospect! We didn’t know what to expect. Wish I’d looked for your website earlier – thanks for being available!

Karyn

Hello Karyn,

Sorry to hear about your experience. Let me answers your questions for you.

Regarding the two corbels, I could answer this better if you email me a photo but I do believe what you have is sufficient since the granite is 3cm solid. If it was not ‘fractured-type’ granite I would be confident to say that at 3cm solid thickness, your overhang situation is absolutely fine as
long as the corbels are secure. However, this is weaker granite than most, so sending me a photo would be best so that I can see where the corbels were placed and how big they are.

Regarding the pits and seams, this is really unfortunate. Both of this issues are address in my “Homeowner’s Checklist” article on the Rock Blog. Unfortunately what you are describing is typical in granite like Pompeii because it is naturally highly fractured granite and the veins where the quartz meets the orthoclase tend to fill in with weak sediment over millions of years.

It is common now for overseas factories to apply a resin coating before shipping these colors in order to avoid this exact customer dissatisfaction. However, these slabs were either not resin coated or they just did not have enough to meet your satisfaction. The salesperson should have pointing this characteristic out to you during your slab selection process. There is a special product of which I am involved in the testing phase, which is coming out in about two months. It can be applied to the surface and will somewhat reduce the issue you are experience. No promise as it is still being tested, but keep in touch and I will let you know about it at the right time.

Regarding the seams, that is just bad fabrication planning. Sometimes it does not look to bad so I hope you can still enjoy the granite, but the fabricator should have matched the veining across the seam as best as possible. Matching color and veining across the seam is an industry standard. Personally, I would reject it and any local expert would say the same. I bet one of the seams could have been avoided as well.

Again, sorry to hear about your troubles. My best wishes to you and thank you for supporting the Rock Blog’s World Vision kids.

Dear Tom, I am searching the internet in desperation, as Hawaian/Tropical Green Granite was installed today with an Ogee edge in our new high end kitchen. We were told that the Ogee edge might be slightly lighter green in color for a time period-until it cured/oxidized/was exposed to the elements. It arrived with two Ogee edges (84″ and 86″) a pale gray, blue, red streaks-very drastic and obvious color difference from the warm and dark green/ cranberry streaks of the top. Other edge surfaces are varied and have only some of the pale gray blue discoloration. The squared off drop to the recessed sink is only the “lighter green” color as promised. We have been told that the Ogee problem is not a resin problem and that Ager and minwax were already tried in a small section, but did nothing. Therefore, we must wait and in time it will age and may already be in the process of change. Does this sound feasible to you? We have not paid any money and will most likely be holding back some money tomorrow. How long should we put in the guarantee period for this to change?

Thank you for any and all comments. – Nancy

Hello Nancy. The specific problem you are describing mostly occurs in the Green Granite from China and the Tropical Green from India. Both are very beautiful but have iron and mica minerals that create ‘browning’ affect on the stone after exposed to sunlight. The discoloration can occur within 30 days when exposed to a summer sun in Southern California for example.

The only time a difference occurs on an edge detail in this specific circumstance is when then this particular granite has been left out side for a while, prior to fabrication. If this granite was stored inside, then the edge detail, after grinding, would have the same minimal degree of sunlight exposure as the top surface. Likewise, if the entire countertop was expose to sunlight after fabrication, then the gradually color change would not be unpleasing.

The Ager product is excellent but it will not work for this circumstance because it is primarily a darkening agent. Take this information for what is worth and I wish you the best.

Hello,
I am a Contractor and installed a flamed absolute black granite tile floor in one of my customer’s hallway and bathroom.
Before I had the chance to seal the floors, my client stated that while taking the garbage out, something dripped on the floor and stained it.
Also, there are urine stains on the bathroom floor. I already used two types of granite products for stain removal that I purchased from my granite supplier and they did not work. Can you advise me on what to do next or what other products I can use to remove these stains.

Thank you, Joe

Hello Joe,

Flamed black granite is difficult to clean because the color is so homogeneous. For the hallway, let’s assume that it was food based liquids like tomato juice or something like that. For that you want to soak and scrub with Ivory soap. This is really all that should be needed. Scrub the whole floor and do it as soon as possible.

For Urine, it is a little trickier and before I tell you what to try, I am going to say, “Test it in a small area first”. The reason for testing, is that sometimes cleaning can affect the stone in a way that is even more noticeable than the stain in the first place. As I said above, Black Absolute is so homogeneous in color that you have to clean the whole floor sometimes to get an even look. With that said, mix 1 part vinegar, 1 part 35″ Hydrogen Peroxide, and 6 parts water. Let the solution soak into the stain for about 5 minutes, then use a wet vacuum to pick up the water. Plot up the rest with a dry cloth or rag. Let me know how it turns out!

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

We recently install Volga Blue in our kitchen. Lately I have noticed it turning brown. Are these rust stains? I’ve been using Stone Care International products to clean it. Help!
Thanks – Rose

Hello Rose,

Volga Blue from the Ukraine, is not really granite. It is natural stone called gabbro-anorthosite and is affected by sunlight. If you have much sunlight coming into the room, it is possible that this could be fading or ‘browning’ the color. It will not deteriorate it just change it a little.

There is also one possibility that that the adhesive they used is bleeding up from the bottom of the stone, but I doubt that.

Best wishes, Tom Cordova

I have Uba Tuba with my faucet, sprayer, and hot water dispenser all sitting directly on/through the granite. As you can imagine, the hard water spots are terrible around the faucets. I know that I am not supposed to use vinegar but what will remove the hard water? Our water is VERY hard. Thanks. — Jill

Hello Jill. Vinegar will not harm your granite but it will remove the sealer that protects it. You can use it, but just remember to re-seal the granite afterward. I would first try TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) from the hardware store.

I’m in the early stages of planning granite counters for a new kitchen in a weekend house. My goal is both beauty and low maintenance. Are there any types of granite that are lower maintenance than others? Are there particular granites that I should not consider or that would be particularly good?

Also, The Countertop Company told me that their K2 Sealing System provides permanent stain protection by using a special silicone-based formula and application process designed to penetrate below the surface of the stone to protect your countertop from stains. The said that the homeowner never has to seal their granite. See http://www.countertopcompany.com/k2sealant.htm
What do you think?

Thanks! Becky

Hello Becky,

I will try to answer your questions about granite and the K2 Sealing System. First let me suggest looking at medium-darker granite for lower maintenance, as a rule-of-thumb. You can see many colors on www.GraniteStock.com. I always recommend granites from the Middle East for low maintenance because they are so dense and loaded with quartz for better hardness. Most of the lighter granites contain higher quantities of Orthoclase minerals and will be more absorbent. However, these granites are still harder than steel so you will not scratch them. For example, the granite in my kitchen is Kashmir White and is softer than dark granites. I have no problems with it because I seal it twice a year and follow proper cleaning methods that do not deteriorate the sealer.

About the K2 Sealing System: The quick answer is maybe, maybe not. We live in a world where advanced products are coming to us at the speed of light. I suppose there could there be a new sealer that performs as this one states. It is technically feasible. Silicone sealers traditionally do not functions as this one describes, but perhaps it was miss-promoted. I read the warranty and I found it short, simple and not full of ‘ways-out’ like most others I see. I do like the idea that they install it for you so that they are indeed fully responsible. I’ve always said, written warranties are worthless and the company’s reputation is where the true warranty lies. Look deeper into the company and see if you are in good hands.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

This past June we had Ubatuba countertops installed in our kitchen. We are very happy with both the appearance and ease of care. Having read up on the characteristics of different stones and having a masters degree in Earth science we were convinced that the darker stones were the way to go. I am opening a barbershop in my home and on my wife’s advice, chose Kasmir White for the countertop. This was a great choice to go with the porcelain floor and oak cabinets. I remain somewhat concerned about staining, etc. Other than periodic sealing ( and what sealer do you recommend? ) do you have any suggestions for care. I am a cleaning fanatic about everything so I do not mind taking extra steps to preserve the stone. Thanks much! RgN

Hello Russell,

Kashmir White is beautiful light colored granite from India and is definitely more porous than dark colored granites, such as Ubatuba. My own kitchen is Kashmir White granite and I seal it once every eight months. I use an anti-microbial sealer sold on Ebay via HomeGranite.com. For cleaning, I use a little mild liquid dishwashing soap and water. I have no problems with staining.

For your specific use at your barbershop, just be sure to seal it about every 6 months. Do not use any chemical cleaners as they will gradually deteriorate the sealer and expose it to staining potential.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom,

What causes rust stains on a supposedly sealed granite shower base and sides or did the installer not impregnate seal it properly im guessing the later and you ?

Thanks, Rick

Hello Rick,

Lighter colored granite needs a heavy coat of sealant to prevent the water from absorbing into the stone but also consider the following. Often times after granite is properly sealed, users use harsh cleaning chemicals. Most of these cleaners will not harm the granite at all, but they will gradually dissolve the sealer and expose the granite to staining.

It sounds like you have another problem as well. Some granite colors contain mica which will rust. You can sometimes see this as a silver fleck in the granite. Even sealer will not prevent the eventual rust marks, usually in a circular pattern around the mica or iron mineral. The rust mark is deep but you could try ‘Iron Out’ found at your local home improvement store. Note, ‘Iron Out’ can etch granite a little so be sure to test it first. After you are done, apply a heavy coat of sealer.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Tom,

I have honed black granite countertops and they are terrible about spotting. If a drop of water sits on them for 5-10 seconds, I have a spot. It’s impossible to cook with these restrictions. I have read your thoughts on honed granite and fully agree with them it’s not the best for customer satisfaction. [My architect specified and has been no help in solving the many problems that have arisen.]

My question is it possible to change the finish from honed to polished in situ?

Molly

Hello Molly,

Honed Black Granite is the worse maintenance experience as you have come to find out. Most restoration company charge about $150 per hour to resurface granite and it would take all day to polish your countertops. In addition, since black absolute is such a homogeneous color, I don’t think it can really be done well enough throughout the surface without leaving distracting difference is sheen.

I can not offer any advice that will meet your complete satisfaction. If you don’t want to tear it out and start over, then consider researching enhancers and sealers that will darken the surface and repel all contaminants. Again you may have distracting difference in sheen when you are done. Do a google search for “Granite Sealers” or “Granite Enhancers” and see what you find. I really don’t want to recommend a specific product because you will have to substantially modify your expectations in order to become satisfied with what you have.

I am sorry for your situation and you have my very best wishes,

Tom Cordova

Tom,

I recently had New Venetian Gold installed. The very first thing I noticed was what appeared to be “dust” on the countertop. Upon cleaning with soap and water repeatedly it is still there. It is very noticeable when standing at an angle in the daytime. I called the company that installed and they came out. They said it was from a “new” kind of glue they used to seal the seams and done “something” that supposedly fixed it. Although it did seem to help some, the dust look is still there. My idea of granite is a high gloss stone look, and this is not it. It looks dirty. It either looks like water spots or “dust”. What can I do to make it look right?? Or am I being too picky??

Kelli

Hello Kelli,

I have heard this problem come up several times. Basically, it is my opinion that the granite slabs are sometimes not cleaned thoroughly at the overseas factory before they are impregnated with resin and then polished. When this happens, very small particles are loosely trapped between the rock and the resin. In time, they come lose.

I have heard of success with cleaning the surface thoroughly with Cleans All from Proctor Gamble. This loosens the resin grip on the particles and then you can wipe them off. You will need to buff the surface dry and apply a penetrating sealer after this process is done. I have heard that this works well and if you try this, please let me know your results.

Best wishes!