Hi Tom-

I am replacing a vanity and vanity top in a space that is surrounded by walls on 3 sides. Because of the walls, I need a 35″ vanity top, and was interested in granite with an undermount sink. Unfortunately, as my size is not standard, a special order will cost me about 3-4 times what the local Home Depot stocks. I was wondering if I purchased the 3/4″ thick, 37″ long granite slab vanity top with sink attached at HD (standard size) can I cut the slab down with a wet saw? The edges will be covered with side splashes, so I am not worried about the edges being perfect, but the tip of the ogee trim on the front will be exposed.

Thank You!
Jessica

Hello Jessica. You can try to cut the vanity top yourself. Since the top will be covered on both ends by splashes, you only have to be careful to make a nice clean cut at the front.

You will need to rent or buy a Small 4″ Grinder from a nearby HomeDepot or Lowes and also a 4″ diamond blade (Called a Tile or Stone Cutting Blade). It should look like steel with very small diamonds embedded in it. The blades cost between $20-$40. There are two types of diamond wheel blades. One that has a continuous rim and the other is segmented. You will know what I mean when you see them. For granite, you usually want to use the segmented rim type because it is more aggressive. The continuous rim is for softer material like marble. However, the continuous rim will make a smoother cut in the granite and is less likely to chip the front edge of your vanity tops. For light color granite, I would use the continuous rim blade.

A diamond blade does not cut like a wood blade. It cut by abrasive force so I really would find someone that has cut masonry or stone before to help you.

An easier plan might be mark the line where you want it cut with tape and then take it to a small granite company nearby and ask them if they will cut it down for cash (maybe $15 or $20, I would assume). This is very simple for them to do and as long as you have it marked. I don’t think that a fabricator will feel that it is too much trouble.

Here is one more thing to consider. Measure the walls at the front and the back. You might want to cut the top out-of-square so that it slides in better.

We just bought a 37″ X 22″ vanity top to be installed onto our old vanity. My concern is can the vanity hold the top without collapsing. Is there anything I can do to the cabinet to make it sturdier. I thought about a running a 34″ two by four across the back wall to give it more strength in the back. Can you suggest other methods?

Thanks,
Tom

Hello Tom. It is very difficult to comment on this without seeing the vanity but let me give you some useful information. When a heavy object is laid flat, the weight to consider is the Gross Distributed Load (GDL). Your total vanity top and sink weight is about 70 pounds but the GDL is about 11 pounds per square foot. This is not much. You may have heard one that the pressure of a woman’s high heel shoe is similar to the weight of an elephant. That is because the area of the tip of the heel is so small. To give you another example, if you personally weight 150 pounds and sit on the vanity, the GDL is about 10 times as much as the vanity top.

I would reinforce the back as you mentioned for extra support, and then put a couple small 1″ ‘L’ clips on the inside front of the cabinet. You can even glue these in place because you just need to diaphragm the vanity box. When you install the vanity top, use white or clear silicone on the top of the vanity walls to adhere it to the vanity cabinets. The instructions on this page should help: http://homegranite.com/installation.htm. The vanity top also will diaphragm the vanity box. Also caulk the back splash to the wall and to the top of the vanity top. This will keep the whole unit from wobbling.

We just had our kitchen redone. We have a 46″ high bump up (bar like) area with an overhang that curves from 6″ to 12″ at its widest and it runs about a 10′ 7″ long between the kitchen/dining area. Five metal brackets support the granite. The fabricator and designer assured us that corbels were NOT needed. After the epoxy dried and the support sticks were removed, the counter is now 1/4″ out of level dipping down toward where we will have our stools. This is unacceptable to us. The contractor is now proposing corbels and possibly shimming the granite. I am upset that it was obviously done incorrectly the first time. Please share your opinion on how this should be handled in order to make it level and insure proper support. – Chuck

Hello Chuck. Unfortunately, corbels are the only solution without remove the granite. If you go to do a search of my blog for ‘overhang’ you will see a lot of my comments on this issue. (Check this one specifically, “Supporting A Large Overhang When Using Granite Tile“.)

If you can pop the granite without breaking it, you can upgrade the steel to the dimensions I stated in the comment I referenced. However, there are still some factors that could cause it to slump such as poor plywood anchoring and weak cabinet structure. The industry standard is to use corbels for 12″ overhangs, but steel straps can suffice, usually.

So, the plan is correct at this point, using corbels but shim are not required. The countertop needs to be raised back up to 1/8″ above level and supported with 2×4 wood. Then, install the corbles. The top will naturally sag to level. I hope you don’t break the granite because this process requires experience.

Is it possible to retro fit a conventional stainless steel kitchen sink with an undermount sink. I have a granite counter top surrounding the 2 sinks. Can this be done and if so, is this a major undertaking? Thank you – Pam

Hello Pam. This might work but it will be very messy and probably not give you the best results. First of all, your top mount sink was most likely caulked around the edge, between the sink lip and the granite surface. When you lift the sink, you will see a caulking stain that will most likely be impossible to remove because it has been there for a long time.

Secondly, a fabricator will have to re-cut and polish the opening to the fit the new undermount sink. A topmount sink cut-out is usually larger than an undermount polished cutout so I doubt you will find a large enough undermount sink that will allow you to do what you want.

If you want to pursue this further, start by measuring the already cut opening in the existing countertop. You might have to get under the sink to measure how and where it was cut. Then look for an undermount sink that is bigger than the opening and still fits within your cabinet size. If you pass these two hurdles, go ahead and pull the sink up to see how bad the caulking stain is.

Dear Tom, I am searching the internet in desperation, as Hawaian/Tropical Green Granite was installed today with an Ogee edge in our new high end kitchen. We were told that the Ogee edge might be slightly lighter green in color for a time period-until it cured/oxidized/was exposed to the elements. It arrived with two Ogee edges (84″ and 86″) a pale gray, blue, red streaks-very drastic and obvious color difference from the warm and dark green/ cranberry streaks of the top. Other edge surfaces are varied and have only some of the pale gray blue discoloration. The squared off drop to the recessed sink is only the “lighter green” color as promised. We have been told that the Ogee problem is not a resin problem and that Ager and minwax were already tried in a small section, but did nothing. Therefore, we must wait and in time it will age and may already be in the process of change. Does this sound feasible to you? We have not paid any money and will most likely be holding back some money tomorrow. How long should we put in the guarantee period for this to change?

Thank you for any and all comments. – Nancy

Hello Nancy. The specific problem you are describing mostly occurs in the Green Granite from China and the Tropical Green from India. Both are very beautiful but have iron and mica minerals that create ‘browning’ affect on the stone after exposed to sunlight. The discoloration can occur within 30 days when exposed to a summer sun in Southern California for example.

The only time a difference occurs on an edge detail in this specific circumstance is when then this particular granite has been left out side for a while, prior to fabrication. If this granite was stored inside, then the edge detail, after grinding, would have the same minimal degree of sunlight exposure as the top surface. Likewise, if the entire countertop was expose to sunlight after fabrication, then the gradually color change would not be unpleasing.

The Ager product is excellent but it will not work for this circumstance because it is primarily a darkening agent. Take this information for what is worth and I wish you the best.

Hello Tom, my wife and I are remodeling our kitchen taking down walls new cabinets and are looking at a granite called Giallo Veneziano, my question to you is: do I do a all tile back splash from counter top all the way 18 inches or all granite back splash to the bottom of cabinet….what is your opion on that.

I thank you for your time. We find your site wonderful it is people like you that help all of us out!

Regards,
Mark & Nicole

Hello Mark. I would definitely recommend using granite slab over granite tile for the splash. The granite shading difference between tiles to slab can vary too much. Secondly, the granite joints in the tile will degrade the beautiful seamless look of the countertops.

However, if it takes another slab to do the backsplash, then there is a budget consideration to go with tile. If you do choose tile, just be sure the joints are not wider than 1/16″ and that the color range of the tile closely matches the range of the slab countertops. Install the tile at a diagonal 45 degrees.

Best wishes!

Dear Tom;

We are having a new home built and we just had our walk-thru and I noticed that the granite countertop in one section about 1.5 ft long has a large gap (about 1/2 to 3/4 inches deep). It appears the granite installers did not properly install or properly cut the template. We have a ceramic backsplash that was also installed between the countertop and the upper cabinets and it is not covering this large gap. The builder is trying to say a strip of some sort will be placed in the edge but this defeats the purpose of the granite and tile backsplash. Is there a more cost effective way to cover this gap? We have the black and tan granite countertop and the backsplash is a tumbled ceramic in tan color. — Andrea

Hello Andrea,

What you are describing is not uncommon because of human error but it is the fault of the fabricator. It is nice of you to try to work with them and there is one suggestion that I have for your to explore.

First let me say that the strip will not look good so don’t do it.

Short of tearing the granite countertop out and starting over, you need to at least tear the tile out completely. Then, the contractor can install a 1/2″-3/4″ thick green board or cement board on the back of the wall where the tile will be installed. The tile can be installed over the board and this should cover the gap. Now then, this procedure will also require trim at all the outside splash edges. Tile can be cut to return the tile back to the wall. It can actually be a nice look when done properly because is make the tile on the splash look thicker and can give an ‘old world’ quality look. I prefer it this look, actually.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom.
Recently we had a company install granite countertops in our new kitchen. We are not happy with them. We have an island in Ubatuba with a ogee edge on it, which of course, I chose. The problem is when you look down the edges you see ripples. the stone appears wavy. On the rest of the counters we had a squared edge and it doesn’t look like this. Is this normal for the stone, that’s what I was told. – Sue

Hello Sue,

It sounds like the fabricator did not have an automatic linear edging machine to do the ogee edge detail. The undulated result that you are describing is typical when an inexperience shop worker tries to route and polish an edge detail by hand. It is not common in shops that have automatic machinery. Sorry for the bad news.

Hi Tom,

We are thinking about using overmount sink for our granite kitchen countertop for our new home, even though the trend is to use undermount sink. We think that the overmount could be safer after we saw the sealant used in the model home undermount kitchen highly visible. When I wash my foodstuff in my current overmount sink, I often have the water filled to the rim. With this habit of mine applied to the undermount sink probably will wear off the sealant fast and also induce some residue from the sealant to my food. There is some advice out there that overmount sink for granite countertop will make the sink surround difficult to keep clean. My question is: Will sealant wear off faste when constantly immerse in water? Will sealant leech out some toxic when immerse in water. Why overmount difficult to keep the surrounding granite clean as some advice stated? Thank you for your advice. Hope

Hello Hope,

Let me present the pros and cons for both types of sinks and you can at least make a well informed decision.

Undermount sink: It can be debated that an undermount sink allows the granite to present itself better because a bulging sink does not stop the eye from admiring the beautiful natural veining and minerals. The polished sink edge along with faucet holes going through the granite also enhance the high-end upgrade for which you paid so much money. Another benefit is that you can clean your countertop by simply sliding what you are cleaning right into the sink.

Now for the cons of undermount sinks! Undermount sinks do create a maintenance situation at the caulking joint between the sink and the underside of the granite. The degree of maintenance is measured by the method and expertise in which the sink was installed. I have seen the worse and the best. If you go with an undermount porcelain sink, insist that steel ’sink-spreaders’ are used to hold the sink up. Do not accept cleated wood or notched and screwed wood anchors. These will not last.

Furthermore, the sealant used is traditionally a latex or acrylic-laex caulking. Sometimes 100% silicone is used but because the messy application process of silicone, most installers opt for the water soluble latex caulking. This caulking is sufficient to keep splash water from seeping into your cabinet but it is not suppose to be 100% submerged. Therefore, if you are the type to fill you sink all the way up, don’t use latex caulking.

In fact, I would only recommend a special caulking made by Vulkum Products which specifically states that it is 100% submersible caulking.

Top Mount Sinks: I really don’t like the look but they do have functional purposes. You can get a much bigger sink with a top mount sink because they are not limited in size by the cabinet walls. I feel that is the #1 consideration for going with a top mount sink. If you are going with a soft countertop stone, like marble, the a top mount sink would protect the edge.

Usually you will save $150 to $200 by selecting a top mount cut, instead of a polished edge finish.

Tom, I watch the remodeling and house flipping shows all the time. If we put a very nice new granite slab on our countertops won’t future home buyers expect the rest of the house to be upgraded to that standard as well? I was thinking of granite tile to go along with our outdated oak cabinets in order to not have to remodel the entire kitchen. But I see you are not a fan of the tile. We just don’t want to have to spend thousands of dollars on the rest of the house to keep in line with a new granite slab. Currently we have 4 inch White tile with gray grout that is impossible to keep clean, so I would love to be groutless. What is your take on this quandary? HELP

Thank you, Ed

Hello Willow,

It is well known that remodeling the kitchen and baths are critical for flipping home for the most profit. It is also critical that it is done tastefully or buyers will look at it just thin they are paying a lot of money for something that really don’t like. That is the problem with tile. Consider the buyers that will pay the most money for your home to be very sophisticated. It is simple enough to say, “Granite tile is not sophisticated”. I can not over-emphasize the importance of using granite slab to attract the buyers who will pay the most.

In your specific budget situation, I recommend searching the Granite Distributors on www.GraniteStock.com and look for those that have marked “prefabrication tops” in their stock list. It is designated by, “others” in the list on their profiles. As I have written in other articles, I am not a big fan of prefabricated countertops for several technical reasons but if you want to save money, that is the way to go. You can also find an installer on www.GraniteStock.com that can help you.

Choose a light gold color like Santa Cecelia or Giallo Ornamental. These colors will appeal to the multitude of buyers. Also consider going to Ebay and buying a prefabricated granite vanity top. They are so inexpensive now. If you upgrade these two areas in a simple and classy way, you will make at least three times your invested amount.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova