Dear Tom:

I have been gathering info on kitchen counter choices for over 2 months. There are so many options and then so many conflicting opinions that I’m worried I’ll never figure this out. Am doing a new kitchen with white (I call them white white meaning not off white) cabinets and 2 islands one matching the white cabinets and one black. It is a simple design somewhat farm or country style. We are doing medium to dark random plank floors. I want to do a large custom copper sink but am flexible if it wouldn’t work with the counters.

What i want is white marble (carrera or calacatta gold) for the island counters and something dark like soapstone for the perimeter counters.. it is a large kitchen so lots of counter. My husband does not want me to do soapstone so am looking for a granite to give that soapstone look. I was told honed absolute black would work but then I read many horror stories online about it. What do you think of honed jet mist or virginia mist? are they the same granite? Also what about all these different finishes? Honed, velvet, suede, brushed? Do you think marble is ok for kitchen? The fabricator we are thinking about using says they recommend it if honed and sealed properly. My husband drinks red wine every night and one of the islands has a raised bar height end which will get heavy use when we entertain. If we could get comfortable with marble I sometimes think we should do all the counters in it.

Someone told me Donna Sandra Granite looks a lot like Carrera marble. Do you know anything about it? Could you please give me some ideas for these counters and also try and clarify for me what is positive and negative about marble and or granite. I currently have polished ubatuba and do not want the shine and sparkle look in my new kitchen. Thanks for your help you are providing a much needed resource on such a confusing topic. I think you’re great sending the money from this to such a worthy charity.

Sincerely,
Cathy

p.s. I should have told you I’m open to looking at any suggestions — color or surface. I do love copper and pewter and my kitchen needs to work with both of them.

Hello Cathy,

I will give you the facts in response to your questions and some personal comments. From that you can make decisions based on your maintenance expectations and desired color décor.

First of all, Carrara and Calacatta are both white marbles from Italy as you know. Before mining technology allowed granites to be extracted, the most popular choice for a stone kitchen countertop was white marble. Carrara Marble being the most widely available and least expensive became commonplace in Italy. Fast forward a couple hundred years and Carrara Marble on countertops still draws an old world Italian charm yet because of the lower maintenance alternative (granite) it comes with sacrifice. Unlike granite, marble is softer than steel and made of mostly porous Calcium Carbonate; therefore, it scratches and stains easily.

Unfortunately, you can not just seal marble and use cutting boards to eliminate the maintenance issues. Because Calcium Carbonate is acid-sensitive, marble will etch from acid in fruit juice and wine. Wine spilled on a professionally sealer marble countertop will still be stained overnight. The only exception to this is a when a topical sealer high in silicone is applied but this will leave your countertop looking polished, not honed.

If you do choose Carrara or Calacatta Marble, you need to be either extremely diligent to use coasters and cutting boards, or you need to have the Italian mentality and just not care about stains or scratches. It is true that the Italians really feel that the stains and scratches just show the classic antiquity of marble and the old world it renders.

Regarding Soapstone, if Martha Stuart didn’t like it, I don’t know who would. This is a very dense, non-porous stone but extremely soft. Your fingernail can scratch it. Basic Soapstone maintenance involves sanding down scratches and using mineral oil to even out the variations after sanding. If you THINK you might like Soapstone, then you don’t. If you want a divorce, then this is a good choice. I rarely find two people in the same room that like Soapstone.

Honed finished granite is problematic if not professional sealed. Granite is hard but the orthoclase minerals and the microscopic gaps between then can be somewhat porous. That issue is successfully avoided after it is professionally sealed. However, honed granites love to show smudges from wipe cleaning and thumb prints. Dark colors are worse than light ones. If you search Absolute Black Granite on my blog, you will see how much I discourage using Honed Absolute Black Granite. That being said, I do know the Virginia Black Granite very well. It is the same stone as Jet Mist. This was very popular granite for government building in the early 1900’s. I never thought of this granite for a kitchen countertop before but it might be the perfect color for those looking for a honed black that does not create the ‘flat black’ maintenance issues. If you use this granite on the perimeter and ask you husband to keep the wine off the Carrara White islands, then I really can see this combination working in an old-world euro-style décor.

Ok, but here are some other options to think about. First all, Donna Sandra Granite? In 18 years, I have never heard of it. It is probably a fictitious name. Basically, select a white granite color that you like and have it professional sealed. I suggest looking at Bianco Romano Granite or White Springs Granite. If you can find White Springs in your area, that would be the best choice. These granite colors are from Brazil and you can see swatches of them at www.GraniteStock.com.

I do like the Jet Mist honed choice. I think that is a very good choice. Bianco Romano or White Springs would compliment the Jet Mist well. With this color combination and the described décor, a flat edge detail with minimal overhang would be best. A copper sink on the white granite would look granite. On the Black surface, I’d highly recommend white porcelain as copper won’t work at all.

My best wishes!

Tom, just read your response to John regarding fissures and Ubatuba. We just had an install ourselves. Many fissures all over. Fabricator/Installer coming back next week. Will address it then, but my question is will the fissures get worse over time? We have a downdraft gas stove top right in the middle of the counter and the fan portion is very heavy, will that cause more? Uba Tuba was by far the most attractive better priced granite we found but now I understand why. Can a special epoxy sealer be put on to give us the best chance of no further hairline fissures? Any other suggestions? Also know that we have a undermount sink with no supports just added and a counter overhang not quite resting on the three corbels it was suppose to, will they shim it?? It that a potential crack area too?? Linda

Hello Linda

The fissures will not increase and I want to add that some people actually like the fissures because of the nature of the stone. If you have direct sunlight on the countertop, you will experience more ‘browning’ in the stone overall. This comes from inherent oxidation in Ubatuba granite.

Best wishes!

Two years ago we had a solid granite countertop installed with a 9″ deep stainless steel undermount sink. I am having plumbing leaks under the sink and am being told that the stub-out from the wall is too high and the sink is too low, therefore causing drainage (water is actually flowing down instead of horizontal) and leaking connection problems. Also, one of the sinks is offset at the back so the connection at the stub-out is very close to the outside wall.

I was told that the stub-out can be moved by tearing out the wall behind the cabinets, but would prefer to remove and re-install a lesser depth sink if I can find one with the same sink pattern.

How difficult is the undermount sink to remove? I am thinking of having a lesser depth sink installed. Is removing the sink a task that me as a layman can do or do I need to have a granite person do this? Thanks for your help.

Hello. Unfortunately I do not know how your original sink is mounted. If it is wedge between plywood and the granite, then you must route out the wood in order to drop the sink. This is not easy but can be done. You must look under the sink to see what is involved. If your sink is epoxied to the granite, then forget trying to remove it.

I would contact a good handyman to inspect the work that needs to be done. Then get your sink prior to actually doing the work. You might not find another sink that fits. Also, you are going to have to come up with a clip system to hold the new sink up. I am sorry but I just don’t have enough information about your current installation to consult you properly. I do think that a good handyman can pull this off though.

I’m in the early stages of planning granite counters for a new kitchen in a weekend house. My goal is both beauty and low maintenance. Are there any types of granite that are lower maintenance than others? Are there particular granites that I should not consider or that would be particularly good?

Also, The Countertop Company told me that their K2 Sealing System provides permanent stain protection by using a special silicone-based formula and application process designed to penetrate below the surface of the stone to protect your countertop from stains. The said that the homeowner never has to seal their granite. See http://www.countertopcompany.com/k2sealant.htm
What do you think?

Thanks! Becky

Hello Becky,

I will try to answer your questions about granite and the K2 Sealing System. First let me suggest looking at medium-darker granite for lower maintenance, as a rule-of-thumb. You can see many colors on www.GraniteStock.com. I always recommend granites from the Middle East for low maintenance because they are so dense and loaded with quartz for better hardness. Most of the lighter granites contain higher quantities of Orthoclase minerals and will be more absorbent. However, these granites are still harder than steel so you will not scratch them. For example, the granite in my kitchen is Kashmir White and is softer than dark granites. I have no problems with it because I seal it twice a year and follow proper cleaning methods that do not deteriorate the sealer.

About the K2 Sealing System: The quick answer is maybe, maybe not. We live in a world where advanced products are coming to us at the speed of light. I suppose there could there be a new sealer that performs as this one states. It is technically feasible. Silicone sealers traditionally do not functions as this one describes, but perhaps it was miss-promoted. I read the warranty and I found it short, simple and not full of ‘ways-out’ like most others I see. I do like the idea that they install it for you so that they are indeed fully responsible. I’ve always said, written warranties are worthless and the company’s reputation is where the true warranty lies. Look deeper into the company and see if you are in good hands.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

What specific chaulk/adhesive/sealer is best to glue a stainless steel undermount sink to granite? After 2 years, the builder installed sink is leaking due to the breakdown of whatever sealer they used and is totally mildewy. I plan to drop the sink, clean up and re-seal. It looks like there are several screws with brackets tapped into the underside of the granite counter to further support the sink.

Thanks, Dave

Hello David,

I believe the glue you are referring to is the caulking between the sink and granite. This in not used to support the sink in anyway. This is only for stopping water seeping into the cabinet. 100% silicone is best but it can be quite messy to work with because it is not water soluble. Personally, I would use latex caulking because it can be smoothed out with a wet finger and cleaned up with a wet towel. It is still very good quality. Look for the words, “Tub and Tile Caulking” on a tube in the tile section of your home improvement store.

Note that it is common for caulking to only last a few years at this joint because of the movement from your sink. This is a maintenance issue and it is good to replace because the mold that can grow can cause health problems.

The anchors underneath are used to support the sink. Be sure to not over-tighten these clamps and that can pull the anchor out of the granite.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom,

What causes rust stains on a supposedly sealed granite shower base and sides or did the installer not impregnate seal it properly im guessing the later and you ?

Thanks, Rick

Hello Rick,

Lighter colored granite needs a heavy coat of sealant to prevent the water from absorbing into the stone but also consider the following. Often times after granite is properly sealed, users use harsh cleaning chemicals. Most of these cleaners will not harm the granite at all, but they will gradually dissolve the sealer and expose the granite to staining.

It sounds like you have another problem as well. Some granite colors contain mica which will rust. You can sometimes see this as a silver fleck in the granite. Even sealer will not prevent the eventual rust marks, usually in a circular pattern around the mica or iron mineral. The rust mark is deep but you could try ‘Iron Out’ found at your local home improvement store. Note, ‘Iron Out’ can etch granite a little so be sure to test it first. After you are done, apply a heavy coat of sealer.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Tom,

I recently had New Venetian Gold installed. The very first thing I noticed was what appeared to be “dust” on the countertop. Upon cleaning with soap and water repeatedly it is still there. It is very noticeable when standing at an angle in the daytime. I called the company that installed and they came out. They said it was from a “new” kind of glue they used to seal the seams and done “something” that supposedly fixed it. Although it did seem to help some, the dust look is still there. My idea of granite is a high gloss stone look, and this is not it. It looks dirty. It either looks like water spots or “dust”. What can I do to make it look right?? Or am I being too picky??

Kelli

Hello Kelli,

I have heard this problem come up several times. Basically, it is my opinion that the granite slabs are sometimes not cleaned thoroughly at the overseas factory before they are impregnated with resin and then polished. When this happens, very small particles are loosely trapped between the rock and the resin. In time, they come lose.

I have heard of success with cleaning the surface thoroughly with Cleans All from Proctor Gamble. This loosens the resin grip on the particles and then you can wipe them off. You will need to buff the surface dry and apply a penetrating sealer after this process is done. I have heard that this works well and if you try this, please let me know your results.

Best wishes!

I just had costa esmeralda honed granite installed in my kitchen. I have noticed that there is small rust like spots appearing throughout the granite. What could be the cause and what could correct it?

Steve

Hello Steve,

Costa Esmeralda can have enough mica and iron that would actually rust. This usually can be prevented with a good application of sealer. To remove the intensity of the rust mark, try “Iron Out” (available and home centers). Test it first in a small area because although it should reduce the mark, it may also etch the countertop surface a little; thus, removing the polished look.

I am not sure what you mean but appearing throughout the granite, so if the “Iron out” is not a practical solution, then I do not believe you have any other option but to seal the granite now to prevent further rusting.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

I have read many of your questions/answers about granite being water stained because we just had granite put into our condo [Vyara Granite] in Hawaii. I brought home a sample of this granite before choosing it and put EVERYTHING we use on it lemon juice, soy sauce, wine, vinegar and oil. Nothing touched it. The slab that was installed in our kitchen discolors with water. The contractor says that the sample must have been “factory resin sealed” but he reordered the granite used in our kitchen. As this is also a rental unit, along with the humidity in Hawaii, I am absolutely sick with worry. The contractor claims the granite was sealed before installation, but he sealed it again afterwards. It was still water spotting so my husband and I sealed it again. Its still water spotting. Perhaps we did not let the sealer sink in all the way or something? Anyway, in your replies to others you mentioned 511 plus and SafeStone do you think either of these will do any good or are we stuck with granite that will never seal? HELP!!

Donna

Hello Donna,

The Vyara Granite is from India. I don’t see a major issue with this granite specifically causing the water spot problems you are describing. I think this is simply a bad combination of human errors.

Sometimes one thing we assume (like the quality of the sealer) can give us false direction to solving problems. Since your situation is so rare, I recommend starting over. First clean the countertop with Windex (this should only be done once). Then apply a good quality penetrating granite sealer. Either buy a couple 4 ounce bottles of Safestone International’s sealer from www.HomeGranite.com or use a name brand like Miracle 511 Impregnator. You want to let the liquid sealer soak into the granite for 25 minutes in humid weather. Do not let the sealer dry on the surface. Apply more sealer to keep it wet. Then, wipe up the wet liquid that did not soak in. After that, stay off the counters for about 4-6 hours. You should not have any problems with water spots. Follow the recommended maintenance guide on my website and you should be fine.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

We recently purchased a home with a shower stall that has 12 x12 granite tile – Emser Bianco Catalina from Lowes. At the bottom of the tile it looks as if it is absorbing the water. There was a baseboard around the bottom of the tile, I have removed it and we have not used the shower for 3 weeks. Some of the tiles have dried and some have not. The tile had been sealed 2 years ago. What do I need to do to get the tile to dry out before sealing.

Thank you,
Erin

Hello Erin,

You need to be sure that all water behind the granite tile is gone. Then you can rent a propane heater (sometimes called a salamander because of the way it looks) from Home Depot or Lowes. Use it to dry the granite.

Note: If the tile has been wet for a long time, you may have a mold issue behind your granite This is very bad and can cause serious health issues for your whole family. I want you to do a Google search, “black mold” and see if you have in your shower looks like Black Mold. If you do, the wall board needs to be replaced by a professional with proper protective equipment. You should have a professional do this because disturbing the mold will release the spores that cause health problems. Hopefully, your substrate is cement board in which case you will not have this problem.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova