I am installing travertine in a Versailles pattern in kitchen and butler’s pantry. Due to size of grout lines used a sanded grout, but am not happy with the way it filled holes and pits. It looks incomplete and scarred. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Rebecca

Hello Rebecca,

That is a common concern from homeowners. I have heard this a few times before. The problem will actually look worse in time if you don’t seal the stone properly because the grout will get much darker and look dirty.

I recommend looking in to a matte finish enhancer/sealer. Let me fist say that you need to do some samples first before proceeding with a full application on your floor. However, I do believe you will be happy with the finish. I suggest that you get it professionally sealed and have a matte glaze enhancer put on the surface. This should not look any different on the stone but it will tone down the grout to the level that you are looking for. It will smooth out the gritty sandy look.

I believe the www.MiracleSealants.com has a good product that you can use or check with your local tile store for a reference.

My very best wishes and let me know if I can help further.

Tom,

I am a commercial interior designer. I think we need a reference book. Is there a book or publication that succinctly provides information on the advantages and disadvantages of each type of stone – plus it’s correct installation method (grout line size, type of grout, sealing, maintenance etc.

Regarding Travertine – what are the disadvantages to using travertine (on the floor in a residence hall lounge – to be precise…) Thank you for your help.

Linda Kress, ASID

Hi Linda,

The Marble Institute of America has all the information guidelines that you needed. Check their bookstore and
consumer resources pages.

Regarding travertine on floors, it is widely used but there are some important considerations. For example, if the travertine is not properly filled, then high heel shoes can literally pop the fill right through the travertine, thus leaving pits randomly throughout the floor. To avoid this, you should specify “travertine which has minimal fill and all holes are adequate filled to avoid damage from foot traffic”.

Joints are important. The tightest reasonable joint should be 1/8″. However, if your tiles are quite large, then 3/16″ is reasonable as well. Grout at this width should be non-sanded and filled flush to surface. Grout and thinset should have a dry-polymer additive to increase strength. There are brands like Merkrete or Laticrete that are well known of strength and quality.

Best wishes!

I’m having 12 x 12 travertine (honed, light beige) installed in the bathroom in the shower and back of tub. I noticed that they are not using spacers between the tiles but have them but up against each other. Is that the standard way of doing it or are they taking the lazy way to install? What is the best way to install to insure that there will not be any leaks later on?

Leta D.

Hello Leta,

For shower walls, stone tile, like travertine, should have a minimum joint of 1/16″. If there is no joint space, the grout will not hold in the joints. For joint that are 1/8″ or smaller, non-sanded grout should be used and thoroughly push into the joint with a grout float. Wider joints require sanded grout.

On a vertical surface, I don’t see how spacers can be avoided because the weight of the tile will cause the tile to sag into the piece below. What you described sounds like a problem to me and I don’t see how the installer can explain to you how grout will be pushed into the seam. Travertine tile usually has a little bevel along the edges. It is not acceptable to grout the bevel only because this grout fall out very soon.

If there is no grout in the seam, water will penetrate and get under the surface. This can cause hazardous mold, discoloring and eventual failure of the tile adhesion. You need a 1/16″ spacer between the tiles.

Best wishes

We recently installed Travertine on the kitchen floor with 1/8″ grout lines. The problem we are experiencing is the grout, in some areas, chips at the top. We thought the grout may have been too thick when we installed. Also, the grout used was unsanded. Do you have any suggestions? – Susan

Hello Susan. If you used grout without sand and the joint width is greater than 1/8″, then that could be part of the problem. Grout shrinks as it dries and the sand is needed to keep the ‘body’ of the grout strong. Actually, sand is always good for grout, but thinner joints just don’t allow enough room for cement and sand; therefore, unsanded grout is used in joints 1/8″ or smaller. There are exceptions to this but I won’t go into that detail here.

Secondly, if the grout was too ‘thick’ as you mentioned, I am assuming that is because there was not enough water mixed in the dry grout. This is most likely the problem and unfortunately created air pressure as your installer tried to push the grout into the joints. This would lift the grout when finished grouting. You will need scrape out the unacceptable or failing grout and simply re-grout with a loose/wet mixture. The good news is that this can be done successfully.

Can travertine be drilled? If so what will I need? I’m going to be applying the travertine to shower walls. Any advise before I start is appreciated. Thanks for your time! – Bob

Hello Bob. Yes, travertine is easy to drill especially if you plan to use an escutcheon that will hide all the rough edges created from the drilling. If you are drilling a hole over 1/2″ diameter, use a diamond core pit. Use one made to cut holes in ceramic tile. These are the best for one time use on travertine because travertine is fairly soft. For holes that are smaller than 1/2″ use a standard masonry bit. Don’t push to hard and let the bit do the work. You might want to have a cup of water need by to dip the bit into it every 15 seconds to keep the bit cool. These will make the bit last longer. If you need to drill a hole that is 1″ or larger you will find that the bit will want to skip out of place if you do not have a template. To make a template, simply get a thin piece of particle board, wood or similar (I have even used a cardboard coaster once). Drill a hole through that first and then hole it in place as you use it for a guide to hold the core bit in place.

I am currently having approx 750 sqft of my home tiled with walnut, honed, chipped and unfilled travertine. It is being installed in a Versailles pattern. After the first day, I have noticed several hollow spots by tapping on each of the tiles. I would say that about half of what has been installed is like this. they are using They are using Mapei Keraflor and I believe they were using something different in the kitchen. Also, the tiles are being butted together in several places. The manufacturer recommends a 1/4 inch grout line. They have also installed the tiles over the existing vinyl sheeting in the kitchen. I was most concerned about the hollow sound as I’ve heard that natural stone must have 100% adhesion or it will fail. This was my original concern until reading several posts on the web including this one. The tile installation company is reputable from what i have gathered and has been around for a while. Do I need to stop everything? What should they be doing differently and will the tile already installed need to come up. I am starting to think that I have made a COSTLY mistake. What do you think? – Michael

Hello Michael,
There are several issues here. First, installing over vinyl in the kitchen is a practice when there is a crawl space under the house.

The vinyl is a good moisture barrier. However, cement board must be screw in over the vinyl to provide adequate tile adhesion. It might sound solid today, but it will not in a year from now as the house expands and contracts. Don’t cross your fingers. Get a warranty for adhesion of the tile at this location.

Secondly, the tile you described should be installed with a 1/4″ grout joint and sanded grout. Perhaps a little tighter if that is your preference, but never butt tight. That is not the correct look for this tile or this pattern. You can find many photos by searching google images, “Versailles pattern stone flooring”. Also, be sure to apply a good sealer to the grout and tile when done or this will be maintenance nightmare.

Lastly, the hollow sounding is usually caused by the installer not using a deep enough trowel. Personally, I recommend a 3/8″ or 1/2″ square notch trowel. Anything less will not provide enough thinset under the stone tile which is required to compensate for irregularity in the subfloor. Also, each corner of the stone tile should be ‘back-buttered’ with a glob of thinset because this is the weakest spot and the most common hollow sounding locations. It is best to flat trowel thinset over the back of the entire stone tile before setting in place. If you floor sounds hollow now, you grout will crack in the near future.

Sorry for the bad news and my very best wishes to you.

Hi Tom,
We have grease spots on the travertine tiles in the kitchen. and we have some holes were the “fill” is gone. The 18″-tile floor is three years old.

Thanks,
Erika

Hello Erika,

There are several responses on the website about cleaning grease spots but if they have been there for a while on travertine, I afraid you are out of luck. You can try a poultice solution with some bleach to lesson the intensity but you will not be able to remove the stain. For a poultice solution, find you local tile store and ask them for a product. Also, any treatment you do will most likely be noticeable in comparison to the rest of the tile. It has the same affect as cleaning pen off of leather or vinyl. So, you will have to replace the tiles if you want the stains completely gone.

For the holes, just buy some non-sanded hydraulic white cement and fill the voids. You could use a non-sanded grout but it will crack and sag a little if the voids are over 1/8″ wide. Non-sanded grout is an ok solution if you are not a perfectionist.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova

Hi Tom! We just moved into a house with a fireplace in the family room. It has travertine surrounding the fireplace on all sides and a wooden mantle (60″ long) over the top travertine. We would like to add wooden legs (40″) to match the wooden mantle but we’re not sure how to install it. The travertine length also covers 60″ X 40″.

Do we drill holes on the travertine to install the legs or do we have to buy a longer mantle (possibly 72″) and install the legs outside of the travertine area? Thanks for your help.

Hazelle

Hello Hazelle,

I suggest the following. For the bottom, drill a 5/16″ diameter hole in the travertine so that it is 3/4″ deep. Then drill a hole at the center of the bottom of the wood column that is 2 1/2″ deep (same 5/16″ diameter). Use a masonry drill bit for the travertine and a wood bit for the column.

Then cut a 1/4″ diameter steel dowel pin about 2″ long. Slide a 1/4″ steel dowel up in the wood hole. This way, when you set the column in place, it will drop down 3/4″ into the travertine hole and still be 1 1/4″ up in the wood hole. For the top, do the same concept, making the mantle hole deep enough to receive the steel dowel and then it should drop partially into the column when you set it in place. Use clear silicone caulking at the top and bottom of the column for adhesive support.

Best wishes,
Tom Cordova